Gordes in the evening light, Luberon
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France

Greek Marseille, Roman Provence, the Popes of Avignon and the painters who came for the light: the history, arts and great tables of Mediterranean France.

Gordes in the evening light, Luberon · Photo: jean-paul-wettstein / Pexels

History

The story of France

Around 600 BC Greek sailors from Phocaea founded Massalia, today's Marseille, the oldest city in France. Rome made the coast its first province beyond the Alps, the Provincia that gave Provence its name, and left the arena at Arles, the Maison Carrée at Nîmes and the Pont du Gard.

From 1309 to 1377 the Popes lived in Avignon and built the vast Palace of the Popes. Provence joined the French crown in the fifteenth century; Nice became French in 1860. In the nineteenth century, winter visitors from across Europe made the Riviera the world's first great resort coast, and then came the painters.

A short timeline

  • Massaliac. 600 BC

    Greek settlers found Marseille.

  • The Provincia2nd century BC onwards

    Roman Arles, Nîmes, Orange and the Pont du Gard.

  • The Popes in Avignon1309 to 1377

    The Palace of the Popes.

  • Provence joins France15th century

    The county passes to the French crown.

  • The Riviera19th and 20th centuries

    Nice becomes French in 1860; the Belle Époque, then the painters.

The Abbey of Sénanque
The Abbey of Sénanque · Photo: Bo Zhang / Unsplash
Èze above the sea
Èze above the sea · Photo: Anastasiia Chepinska / Unsplash
A lane in old Menton
A lane in old Menton · Photo: sandy / Unsplash

Arts and letters

Great figures and the arts

The Cannes Film Festival, first held in 1946, made the Croisette a stage. The Fondation Maeght at Saint-Paul-de-Vence and the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild at Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat are two of the coast's great treasures.

Great figures

  • Paul CézannePainter

    Born in Aix-en-Provence; painted Mont Sainte-Victoire again and again.

  • Vincent van GoghPainter

    Arles and Saint-Rémy, 1888 to 1890.

  • Henri MatissePainter

    Lived in Nice for decades; the Chapelle du Rosaire at Vence.

  • Pablo Picasso and Marc ChagallPainters

    The Picasso Museum in Antibes and the Chagall Museum in Nice.

  • Marcel PagnolWriter and film-maker

    The Provence of Jean de Florette and Manon des Sources.

At the table

The cuisine of France

The cooking of the south is olive oil, garlic, herbs and the sea: bouillabaisse in Marseille, socca and salade niçoise in Nice, ratatouille and pistou in Provence. Provence rosé is drunk all summer; Bandol and Châteauneuf-du-Pape are its serious wines. The south of France has some of the greatest tables in the Mediterranean.

Great tables on TheMediterranean.com

  • Le Petit NiceMarseille

    Gérald Passédat's seafood, right on the water.

  • L'Oustau de BaumanièreLes Baux-de-Provence

    Glenn Viel, at the legendary Provençal inn.

  • La Vague d'OrSaint-Tropez

    Arnaud Donckele, at Cheval Blanc St-Tropez.

  • AM par Alexandre MazziaMarseille

    An intimate three-star.

The finest restaurants in France →

UNESCO World Heritage

World Heritage highlights of France

A selection of the finest sites, not the full list.

Arles

The Roman arena, the theatre and the Romanesque cloister of Saint-Trophime.

Nice

Inscribed as the winter resort town of the Riviera.

Plan

Explore France

Before you go, read our notes on customs and etiquette in France: how to greet, what to wear and how to tip.

Keep exploring

More of France

The Mediterranean Season Letter

Where to be, every season

Four letters a year, one for each season: the Mediterranean from spring to autumn, and Beyond the Mediterranean, into the Alps, in winter. The one best hotel to book, and the events worth crossing a sea for.